Almost done. Part 3.

Sunday morning. Bright and early. I actually went to bed early so I could wake up and then be 10 minutes late to start my 3 day wicked cool hard core white water rafting trip. Luckily, nothing and I mean nothing is on time in south America, so even though I was 10 min late I still had a chance to sit and wait for the bus for 40 minutes. It was election day in Peru so everything was running slower than usual and everybody was proudly displaying their purple thumbs.
So, finally, the bus arrives and about 15 of us pile into a small uncomfortable bus and head towards the far reaches of the apurimac river. It starts close to arequipa in the far south western corner of Peru and then flows north and becomes the main feed for the amazon river which continues flowing all the way across the continent to the atlantic. Check the map, that is a long way! The river is secluded and wild. Lots of class 4 and class 5 rapids. We began with a 5 hour drive that amy would definitely not have liked on a 1 lane cliffside dirt road climbing through remote mountain areas occasionally passing villages dug into the hills and lots of terraced fields. When we arrived at the canyon, it took about 40 minutes to switchback down into it to the side of the river, and then another hour to unload and set up the gear followed by 30 minutes of lunch. (if there was one thing which we were not in danger of, it was starvation. SO MUCH FOOD! Every meal had fresh salad, cheese, bread, hot tea, + whatever else the meal would be.) by the time we finally set off on the first day, the sun was behind the canyon wall and we had a pleasant afternoon paddle to our first camp. On the way, we did lots of drilling on paddle strokes, flipping, rescue techniques, and general preparation. Lots of swimming and jumping and dun.
We arrived at camp close to dusk and set up tents on a sand beach at the foot of a HUGE cliff which was lit orange by the camp fire but not bright enough to blot out the incredible stars and milky way which appeared across the face of the sky. Orion was out there front and center. I like the constellation orion. Aside from the fact that he is wicked easy to find, he is everywhere! I’ve seen him northern hemisphere, southern hemisphere, east, west, everywhere. Its kind of, grounding. Dunno.
Anyways, still full of energy, we sat up late chatting and playing games and generally causing trouble. Somewhere in the middle of that we played the game mafia and I was given the nickname blondy. So for the next 3 days “hey blondy!” was THE way of getting my attention. Fair enough.
In my boat were 2 british (one who claims to have represented England in the Olympics as a trampolinist.) and a guy from Switzerland (who spent the last 2 days sick and not very happy). The other boats were full of Israelis. So, while in my boat I spoke English, outside I spent 80% of the time listening to and speaking Hebrew. So much for Spanish lessons.
So, day 2. lots of rapids. A boat flipped in a class 5in a really bad area. I was up on a rock watching as 5 heads disappeared and 2 popped up. I quickly counted again on my fingers but still missing 3 red helmeted heads. One pops about 60 meters down stream past a chute, and then I see the safety kayak picking up the other 2 which had been clinging out of site behind huge boulders fingernails length away from being whisked downstream. Cool!
My time came a bit after lunch when we went over a rapid and then paddled back into it o surf the boat in the hole caused by the down pressure of the water. (the technical explanation.) after 3 or 4 tries, we get stuck in good, and I am told the boat went vertical and nearly over backwards. I have it on video and it looks pretty f-in cool. Where was I? I was on my way underwater downstream about 40 yards. When I surfaced, looking for what I expected to be my rescue, the safety kayak still well upstream told me to swim. Thanks. So, I struggle to shore and spend a few minutes enjoying air before back in the boat and off to more fun.
Night 2, spent on the beach in a huge canyon, much like night 1. more talking, fun and games. Spent the time around the campfire near the river listening to groovy tunes off of an mp3 player with small portable speakers. Ahhhh, technology.
Day 3 had a few more class 5 rapids and another boat flip, though not as cool as the first one. We lost the british girl to one rapid, but it was ok because it meant more legroom for me. (we picked her up a minute downstream)
Then, we come to the cliff. The first time I jumped off a cliff into a river, I lost a shoe and bruised my fingers. The second time I lost my sunglasses and hurt my neck a bit. The third time I think I re-tore my eardrum. So, when we arrived at the cliff for the jumping, I had already assured myself I wasn’t going to do it. I was still assuring myself this as I climbed the cliff and then stood at the top. Then I counted, 1….2….3…. And thought to myself, well, I did say 3. I kind of have to jump now. So I did. And probably screamed. No recollection. I hit the water, surfaced and did a body check. No ear ringing, sun glasses still attached, sandals firmly strapped. Whoo-hooo. Safe and sound. Which leads me to the conclusion that jumping off a cliff is like riding a bike. If it doesn’t work the first few times, keep trying!
The rest of the day was fast. A few more class 4 rapids, swim a few class 2 rapids, hit the take out point and pull everything out of the water, a big bbq and an hour of relaxing before the 2 hour bus ride back. Again, incredible views. Green valleys with big mountains hemming them in, snow capped giants sitting just behind, the afternoon sun making everything golden. These are the scenes I came to south America to see.
So, after 3 days, I was exhausted but refreshed. I’ve been needing some fresh air for a while.
So, Tuesday night, dinner with the Israelis, a bit of dancing and then off to bed. Wednesday, a few errands and then I got on a 2.30pm bus for the border which arrived at 6am. What a shlep. Changed to a collective which sheparded me through the border. As opposed to amy and ericas experience, mine was fairly easy. Though I was 9 days over what my visa allowed, a few words from the driver to Peruvian immigration and only $9 and I was through. + I got an extra stamp in my passport saying I was a bit deviant but the Peruvian government thinks its ok and they let me go! If I had gone to renew my visa I would have had to pay $27 + money for each day late. This way I only paid $9. what sort of incentive for propriety is that?
And then, I get to the Chilean border. OH how nice it was! To see a border with paved roads, actual offices with and computers and some sense of regularity. Through the border, off the collective and after a 2 hour wait, straight onto another bus to the north Chilean city of iquique. A beach resort.
And that’s where I am.